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Helmi trench blouse & tunic dress
Intermediate
Sizes: EUR 32-56 | US 0-24 | UK 4-28 | Size chart
The Helmi sewing pattern includes two variations: The straight-cut blouse has elements from the classic trench coat, such as the cape and sleeve straps. The rounded collar and slightly curved hem with slits add a touch of soft femininity to this shirt. The more streamlined tunic variation is also straight-cut and has a simple stand-up collar, half sleeves, and a curved hem. Both variations have a discreet and elegant hidden button placket.
PDF or POD? Scroll down for details!
Details
PATTERN PROPERTIES
- Patterns and instructions are in English
- All seam allowances are included
- Illustrated sewing instructions
- Non-overlapping pattern layout
PDF PATTERN
- Print-at-home PDF: 45 home printer pages
- Copy-shop PDF: Three A0 sheets
- Projector pattern
- PDF instructions
- Print preview
Pattern type: Post-2020
All PDF patterns are layered
Delivered by email
POD (PRINT-ON-DEMAND) PATTERN
Includes the entire PDF pattern, plus a printed copy-shop pattern. Delivered by email and mail.
PRINTED PATTERN
Not available for this pattern.
Details
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PATTERN PROPERTIES
- Patterns and instructions are in English
- All seam allowances are included
- Illustrated sewing instructions
- Non-overlapping pattern layout
PDF PATTERN
- Print-at-home PDF: 45 home printer pages
- Copy-shop PDF: Three A0 sheets
- Projector pattern
- PDF instructions
- Print preview
Pattern type: Post-2020
All PDF patterns are layered
Delivered by email
POD (PRINT-ON-DEMAND) PATTERN
Includes the entire PDF pattern, plus a printed copy-shop pattern. Delivered by email and mail.
PRINTED PATTERN
Not available for this pattern.
Read more about our patterns and updates.
Fabric recommendations
For both variations, choose a light weight or medium weight non-stretch shirting. Your fabric can either be drapey, such as rayon or crepe, or a bit sturdier, such as linen. If your fabric is coarse, choose a light and slippery lining fabric to line the cape with.
Materials
- Blouse: Fusible interfacing, 95 cm (1 yd)
- Blouse: Small buttons, 7 pcs
- Blouse: 3 cm (1 1/8”) D-rings, 4 pcs
- Dress: Fusible interfacing, 10 cm (1/8 yd)
- Dress: Small buttons, 6 pcs
Fabric requirements
| Size EUR/US/UK | Unit | 32/0/4 | 34/2/6 | 36/4/8 | 38/6/10 | 40/8/12 | 42/10/14 | 44/12/16 | 46/14/18 | 48/16/20 | 50/18/22 | 52/20/24 | 54/22/26 | 56/24/28 |
Blouse
| Fabric width 150 cm | cm | 150 | 150 | 150 | 155 | 155 | 160 | 165 | 190 | 200 | 205 | 215 | 215 | 230 |
| Fabric width 115 cm | cm | 205 | 235 | 240 | 245 | 255 | 280 | 285 | 290 | 295 | 300 | 310 | 320 | 325 |
| Fabric width 60" | yd | 1 5/8 | 1 5/8 | 1 5/8 | 1 5/8 | 1 3/4 | 1 3/4 | 1 3/4 | 2 1/8 | 2 1/4 | 2 1/4 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 1/2 |
| Fabric width 45" | yd | 2 1/4 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 3/4 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/4 | 3 1/4 | 3 3/8 | 3 1/2 | 3 1/2 |
Cape lining
| Fabric width 150 cm | cm | 40 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 45 | 45 | 45 | 45 | 45 | 45 | 50 | 50 | 50 |
| Fabric width 115 cm | cm | 40 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 45 | 45 | 45 | 50 | 55 | 60 | 60 | 65 | 65 |
| Fabric width 60" | yd | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
| Fabric width 45" | yd | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 3/8 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 5/8 | 5/8 | 5/8 | 3/4 | 3/4 |
Tunic dress
| Fabric width 150 cm | cm | 160 | 165 | 165 | 165 | 165 | 165 | 170 | 170 | 170 | 235 | 240 | 240 | 240 |
| Fabric width 115 cm | cm | 215 | 220 | 220 | 250 | 255 | 260 | 265 | 270 | 275 | 280 | 285 | 285 | 290 |
| Fabric width 60" | yd | 1 3/4 | 1 3/4 | 1 3/4 | 1 3/4 | 1 7/8 | 1 7/8 | 1 7/8 | 1 7/8 | 1 7/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 | 2 5/8 |
| Fabric width 45" | yd | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/8 | 2 3/4 | 2 3/4 | 2 7/8 | 2 7/8 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 | 3 1/8 |
Note that for patterned or napped fabrics the fabric requirement may be higher.
Finished measurements
| Size EUR/US/UK | Unit | 32/0/4 | 34/2/6 | 36/4/8 | 38/6/10 | 40/8/12 | 42/10/14 | 44/12/16 | 46/14/18 | 48/16/20 | 50/18/22 | 52/20/24 | 54/22/26 | 56/24/28 |
| Bust | cm | 83.5 | 87.5 | 91.5 | 95.5 | 99.5 | 103.5 | 107.5 | 111.5 | 117.5 | 123.5 | 129.5 | 135.5 | 141.5 |
| inch | 32 7/8 | 34 1/2 | 36 | 37 5/8 | 39 1/8 | 40 3/4 | 42 3/8 | 43 7/8 | 46 1/4 | 48 5/8 | 51 | 53 3/8 | 55 3/4 | |
| Waist | cm | 90.5 | 94.5 | 98.5 | 102.5 | 106.5 | 110.5 | 114.5 | 118.5 | 124.5 | 130.5 | 136.5 | 142,5 | 148.5 |
| inch | 35 5/8 | 37 1/4 | 38 3/4 | 40 3/8 | 41 7/8 | 43 1/2 | 45 1/8 | 46 5/8 | 49 | 51 3/8 | 53 3/4 | 56 1/8 | 58 1/2 | |
| Hip tunic dress | cm | 97 | 101 | 105 | 109 | 113 | 117 | 121 | 125 | 131 | 137 | 143 | 149 | 155 |
| inch | 38 1/4 | 39 3/4 | 41 3/8 | 42 7/8 | 44 1/2 | 46 1/8 | 47 5/8 | 49 1/4 | 51 5/8 | 53 7/8 | 56 1/4 | 58 5/8 | 61 | |
| Length blouse (CB neck to hem) | cm | 63 | 63 | 63.5 | 63.5 | 64 | 64 | 64 | 64.5 | 64.5 | 65 | 65 | 65,5 | 66 |
| inch | 24 3/4 | 24 3/4 | 25 | 25 | 25 1/4 | 25 1/4 | 25 1/4 | 25 3/8 | 25 3/8 | 25 5/8 | 25 5/8 | 25 3/4 | 26 | |
| Length tunic dress (CB neck to hem) | cm | 100.5 | 101 | 101 | 101.5 | 101.5 | 102 | 102 | 102 | 102.5 | 102.5 | 103 | 103 | 103.5 |
| inch | 39 5/8 | 39 3/4 | 39 3/4 | 40 | 40 | 40 1/8 | 40 1/8 | 40 1/8 | 40 3/8 | 40 3/8 | 40 1/2 | 40 1/2 | 40 3/4 | |
| Sleeve length short | cm | 39 | 39.5 | 39.5 | 40 | 40 | 40.5 | 40.5 | 41 | 41.5 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 |
| inch | 15 3/8 | 15 1/2 | 15 1/2 | 15 3/4 | 15 3/4 | 16 | 16 | 16 1/8 | 16 3/8 | 16 3/4 | 16 7/8 | 17 3/8 | 17 1/2 | |
| Sleeve length long | cm | 59 | 59.5 | 59.5 | 60 | 60 | 60.5 | 60.5 | 61 | 61.5 | 62.5 | 63 | 64 | 64.5 |
| inch | 23 1/4 | 23 3/8 | 23 3/8 | 23 5/8 | 23 5/8 | 23 7/8 | 23 7/8 | 24 | 24 1/4 | 24 5/8 | 24 3/4 | 25 1/4 | 25 3/8 |
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